JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Thread starter Blomhj Start date Aug 12, Blomhj Member. Car runs fine no "check engine" lights and according to this codes the car should not even be running. Starts fine and runs all the way to Rpm no hiccups. Coil packs, spark plugs? Will change the plugs and check the coils as a matter of elimination just in case..
Often, a small amount of residual magnetism remains, especially short-term, which is why the alternator will sometimes produce electricity if the lamp is burned-out; BUT Once the alternator produces electricity, it will continue to produce electricity until the RPM falls to some value below 2,, at which time the alternator may continue to produce electricity as the rpm again rises, depending on small details and also how long the rpm was, for instance, near idle; and thus the process can be, or might be, repeated.
With an intact lamp and connections, this occurs at some rpm below rpm; the exact rpm depends on the rotor, and other factors.
It is true that increasing RPM to as much as rpm will possibly allow charging due to the residual magnetism that might be in the rotor. You can not depend on this. The modification described below allows the lamp or lamp contacting area at the foil printed material to fail and you still get charging The charging with the resistor modification and a burned-out lamp or bad lamp connection , will not begin at as low an rpm as with an operating lamp using what I call a higher value resistor, such as or ohms , but you do not have to spin the engine to quite high rpm either.
If what I call the low ohm resistor modification is done, you do not need the lamp at all, as performance will remain just about the same as if the lamp and instrument pod did exist.
The low ohm modification is generally for those who have cafe'd a bike, or otherwise do not have the regular instrument pod or setup. The low ohm modification can be done to a stock bike, if the resistor is located where any heat is well-dissipated. All the later motorcycles used a 3 watt lamp. The 4 watt lamp allows a very slightly lower RPM at which the alternator might begin to produce usable output.
That is because the 4 watt lamp has a lower resistance in ohms. However, you probably will never notice any difference, and even with test equipment the effect may not hardly exist. If you have a break in any Gen lamp circuit, any resistor modification may not help; depending on where and how you install the resistor.
Most failures in the lamp area are at the lamp's actual contacting "socket", which is the printed circuit flexible material in the instrument pod Much more rarely, but has happened, the failure is inside the rubber plug that pushes into the rear of the instrument pod, or, a cracked solder joint at the mating male connection to that plug inside the pod fixable by careful cleaning and soldering.
If the proposed modification resistor is mounted with good workmanship under the fuel tank, there are no such problem areas, except for the quality of YOUR workmanship. For the high value resistor or ohms , it dissipates little heat, so it is OK to put it inside the pod. The actual circuit routing is slightly more complex than earlier described. The GEN lamp will be lighted, as the battery current flows through it and then through the regulator and rotor, to engine case ground battery negative.
Once the alternator stator output increases enough, the three small diodes rectify the stator output rectify means to change A. The lamp can not ever supply enough current to fully energize the rotor when large outputs from the alternator are required As RPM rises, the small diodes pass far more current into the voltage regulator, which supplies the current needed to more fully magnetize the rotor, which causes output of the alternator to greatly increase.
As the output voltage from the diode board diodes begins to approach the desired amount, the regulator begins to reduce the current flowing into the rotor from the small diodes. The current flow being regulated is that of the small diodes output, and not directly the big diodes output, which goes to the battery and rest of the bike's electrical system.
It is the LAMP that separates the main output of the big diodes from the small diodes output, as far as 'sampling' the voltage is concerned. There are some more complex reasons why the small diodes are there, and why this seemingly strange sampling method was done. I will not get into these reasons, they will only further complicate things here. A dim GEN lamp at relatively modest to high rpm usually means some sort of corrosion at connectors, or a bad rotor or overly-worn brushes.
A bright lamp at riding rpm usually means an open or shorted rotor or bad regulator, or a bad diode board, and likely there is no charging no alternator output at all. Note that the lamp can be off, and the system not charging When one or both brushes is just worn enough they also tend to not wear evenly , the snail spring that supplies pressure onto the brush may begin to contact the plastic brush holder, and that will greatly reduce pressure on the brush.
This is a common complaint and shows up as the brush nears the end of its life The reason for this is the slight wobble called run-out of the rotor It also comes about from larger alternator output requests as RPM rises You can think of all this simply as the brushes are not making consistent or high enough pressure in contacting the rotor slip rings. It almost always happens on one brush first. Stock brand-new brushes are Brush life depends on riding conditions. Dust and dirt is abrasive, and wears the brushes faster than if the air was clean.
Generally, , miles is a typical brush life. I have seen the outer forward-most brush wear down to unusable, in 20, miles, under very dusty conditions on Airheads that have the better ventilated front engine cover. If one or both brushes have worn to the partial contacting point, and you are on a tour, you can put a tiny piece of thick paper between the end of the snail spring and the brush outer end; this will keep the snail spring from contacting the brush holder, and you can ride on, and likely for a very considerable distance, even more miles would not be unheard of with a thick piece of paper.
Replacing the brushes is a bit of a bother, much easier to do it at home than on a tour. I do recommend inspecting the brushes maybe once a year for length just use a dental mirror and light, and see if the snail spring has lots of movement left.
The added piece of paper method will work well, and is not difficult to do, although it is a bit fiddly if the inner brush is the problem one. This consists of installing one common and inexpensive standard electronic part called a resistor.
I will, later here, also describe using an LED in place of the stock lamp. I ran actual tests for the optimum value for the resistor modification for the GEN alternator lamp circuit Any incandescent lamp has a fairly low resistance when cold not illuminated and that resistance increases considerably when the lamp lights up.
While possibly nerdy, this effect was taken into account in this article. The pod-mounted resistor, which substitutes for the lamp if imperfectly if the lamp or lamp connection fails , is connected across the GEN lamp electrically, but not necessarily mechanically at the lamp itself or its socket , although that is a nice place for it if you use the specified higher resistor values in this article or ohms, for example.
The added pod-mounted resistor of the modification itself passes little current, typically around. If the lamp burns out or has a bad connection, the much smaller resistor-allowed current will initially adequately energize the rotor, at a somewhat higher rpm, but certainly NOT all that much higher. The resistor's purpose is to allow the alternator to reliably produce electricity should the lamp fail, and once the alternator is producing usable electricity, the alternator self-energizes.
Friday, January 14, By Staff Writer. November 6, Repair Summary. The following article gives detailed instructions on performing a blower resistor replacement on a BMW E46 3 series car.
Even though we have used a BMW ci to perform this installation, this article can be applied to any E46 3 series vehicle, including the i, i and i coupe, sedan and convertible. If the air has stopped blowing in your 3 series, then you probably need to replace your BMW E46 blower resistor and blower motor assembly. When one part fails, the other is not far behind, so it is best to replace both.
Replacing a BMW E46 blower resistor is a pain in the neck The blower resistor also known as the "final stage" for the E46 3 series was mysteriously buried by BMW engineers in the passenger side footwell at the back of the center console.
Replacing it requires laying on your back and executing a few advanced yoga moves. The good news is a new BMW E46 blower resistor is fairly cheap, and you need very few tools to perform this repair.
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